The Art of the Possible: Navigating Control States and Crafting North Carolina’s Liquid Identity

For the modern bartender, the back bar is more than a shelf—it is a curated library of flavor. But for Sean Teague, the bar director at Charlotte’s acclaimed new venue, Huckleberry, that library is subject to a rigorous, state-mandated vetting process. Operating in North Carolina—one of the 17 “control states” in the U.S. where the government manages the sale and distribution of alcohol—Teague is constantly balancing his creative ambitions against the rigid realities of bureaucratic supply chains.

Teague, recognized as one of Punch’s Best New Bartenders of 2026, views these legislative hurdles not just as obstacles, but as a catalyst for innovation. By necessity, he has turned his focus inward, championing the local producers who thrive within the state’s borders, proving that a truly exceptional cocktail program can be built entirely on the foundations of regional terroir and ingenuity.

The Reality of the Control State

In a control state, the state government holds a monopoly on the wholesale distribution of spirits. This creates a challenging environment for bar managers. Restrictions on the variety of available brands, protracted wait times for shipping, and the bureaucratic nightmare of special-ordering niche spirits can leave a bar director feeling paralyzed.

“It is a very big pain in my side to have to restrict what spirits I’m able to get,” Teague admits. “There are lots of really cool tequilas, rums, and amaro I simply cannot access.”

However, this scarcity has forced a shift in strategy. Rather than mourning the lack of international imports, Teague has embraced a hyper-local sourcing philosophy. This transition has turned Huckleberry into a testing ground for North Carolina’s burgeoning craft spirit industry. By filling his menu with readily available local products, he isn’t just solving a logistical problem; he is telling a story of the Carolinas through the glass.

A Legacy of Chemistry: The Huckleberry Approach

Huckleberry’s identity is defined by a unique tension: the intersection of childhood nostalgia and high-end cocktail science. Teague’s menu features drinks that evoke the comfort of cherry Coke and Welch’s grape juice, yet these are elevated through techniques learned during a transformative stage under legendary cocktail scientist Dave Arnold.

This marriage of high and low culture is what defines the modern craft movement. Teague uses his knowledge of clarification, carbonation, and aeration to ensure that even the most nostalgic flavor profile feels sophisticated and modern. To understand how he executes this vision, one must look at the specific bottles that anchor his program.

Huckleberry’s Five Pillars: A Deep Dive

Teague’s bar program is built upon five specific spirits, each reflecting the character of North Carolina’s landscape and the creative spirit of its producers.

1. Eda Rhyne Bitter Tooth

Produced in Asheville, Eda Rhyne’s Bitter Tooth holds a personal significance for Teague, whose grandmother resides in the nearby town of Waynesville. This liqueur is a masterpiece of foraging, featuring botanicals like sarsaparilla, hibiscus, and dried bitter orange peel.

“The sweetness sits somewhere between Campari and Aperol, but it leans into a rabarbaro (rhubarb) profile with a heavy spice backbone,” Teague explains. While he is a fan of their entire range—including their fernet and the “Nonino-esque” Amaro Flora—the Bitter Tooth has become the backbone of his house spritz. Because it requires special coordination with local ABC boards, its availability is tenuous, making it a "drink it while you can" fixture on the menu.

2. Cooks Mill Bourbon

When asked about his favorite spirit, Teague doesn’t hesitate: “It is probably the best bourbon I’ve ever had.”

Crafted using North Carolina-grown corn and rye, Cooks Mill Bourbon defies the typical expectations of a craft whiskey. Teague notes that it possesses a unique profile of juicy apples and fresh rye bread. Its versatility is its greatest asset; he uses it as the base for the house Old-Fashioned with piloncillo syrup, but also utilizes its creamy, toasty qualities in an unorthodox Espresso Martini. It is, in his words, a perfect representation of the state’s agricultural potential.

3. 1000 Piers Blueberry Gin

While Teague is a master of the “justino” method (a technique for clarifying fruit purees into spirits, as popularized by Dave Arnold’s Liquid Intelligence), he is also a pragmatist. When a commercial product hits the mark, he is happy to use it to save time and support local makers.

1000 Piers Blueberry Gin macerates the fruit, leaving a slight, intentional sediment that adds texture and depth. “It’s definitely hot like a gin, not a liqueur,” Teague says. He frequently pairs it with blueberry port, gentian, and hibiscus in an Americano, or utilizes it in a Last Word variant where the gin’s acid-sugar profile can shine.

4. Rockwell Amber Vermouth

A vermouth aged for 18 months in skin-fermented wine, Rockwell’s offering is a hybrid of styles. It sits squarely between sweet and dry, with a botanical profile including blue agave nectar, gooseberry, and quassia wood.

“It finishes with a nice caramel note but maintains very fruit-forward qualities,” says Teague. At Huckleberry, it provides the “roundness” necessary for a White Negroni washed with olive oil and coffee. It is a testament to how modern American vermouths are beginning to rival the storied European classics.

5. Kill Devil Pecan Rum

The Puh-Kahn Amaro Daiquiri, a signature digestif at Huckleberry, relies on the distinct, nutty character of Kill Devil Pecan Rum. Made with honey harvested in-state and pecans from Manns Harbor, this spirit is a North Carolina gem.

Teague admits that working with the rum requires a delicate hand. “You have to play around with the competing base flavors: nutty, caramel, honey, and floral,” he notes. Despite its complexity, it is surprisingly versatile, finding its way into refreshing highballs as easily as it does into rich, dessert-focused cocktails.

Implications for the Craft Industry

The success of Huckleberry and the rise of spirits like those produced by Eda Rhyne and Kill Devil illustrate a broader shift in the American cocktail landscape. As states tighten their control over distribution, the craft spirit industry is responding by becoming more hyper-regional.

The implication is clear: the future of the American cocktail is not found in the global distribution of mass-produced, international brands, but in the specific, localized agriculture of the states themselves. By forcing bar directors to look within their own borders, control states may inadvertently be helping to build a more sustainable, authentic, and localized drinking culture.

A Future in Flux

For Sean Teague, the journey at Huckleberry is ongoing. As he continues to navigate the labyrinthine regulations of the North Carolina ABC, his focus remains on education and adaptation. He is not merely a bartender; he is a bridge between the producer and the guest, translating the complexities of state law into a seamless, enjoyable experience.

The bureaucracy remains a hurdle, but as Teague’s menu demonstrates, the spirit of innovation is rarely dampened by red tape. When you restrict the flow of the world’s spirits, you don’t stop the flow of creativity—you simply change the source. In the case of Huckleberry, the results are, quite simply, the best bourbon and the most compelling cocktails that North Carolina has ever seen.

Through persistence, experimentation, and a deep respect for the land, Teague is proving that even in the most restricted environments, the art of the drink can flourish. He invites his guests to look past the label and taste the story of the state, one glass at a time.